Inspecting Residential Home Heating Oil Tanks In Connecticut

Heating oil, which is more commonly known as Fuel Oil No. 2, is used to heat 7.7 million American homes each year, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Heating oil is in a category of fuel oil that also includes Fuel Oil No. 1 (kerosene), range oil and jet fuel. It is essentially the same as diesel fuel except without dye (and the state taxes). For home heating use, oil is usually stored in tanks that are underground, in basements, or above ground outside of the house. Heating oil is safe when stored and used appropriately, but accidental spills and undetected leaks can endanger health, property and the environment. Inspectors and their clients should be aware of some of the hazards of a leaking or damaged above-ground oil tank.

 

(Note:  For a discussion concerning the dangers of submerged or underground fuel storage tanks, see our article on Underground Fuel Storage Tank Hazards and Inspection.)

 

How common are leaks?

 

Oil leaks and spills can happen at a residential property for a number of reasons, such as when a storage tank develops a leak or is damaged or overfilled, or if oil is accidentally filled into a septic tank or into fuel lines that are no longer attached to the tank. A spill might even happen on a nearby property and the oil may flow into a neighbor's yard. Regardless of its cause, cleaning up an oil spill is extremely expensive, often costing hundreds of thousands of dollars or more, and putting homeowners in danger of bankruptcy.

How toxic is home heating oil?

Heating oil is also an environmental pollutant that can poison soil, groundwater, and wildlife and their habitats. It has a relatively low toxicity to humans –- less than that of gasoline, for instance -– although it can harm people through the following methods of exposure:

• inhalation of vapors:
  
  
  • Short-term exposure to heating oil fumes can cause headaches, nausea, increased blood pressure, dizziness, difficulty concentrating, and irritation to the eyes, nose and throat.
  • Long-term exposure to heating oil fumes, often due to undetected leaks, can cause liver and kidney damage, diminished ability to smell and taste, and other serious health problems. Heating oil is not currently known to cause cancer, although one of its constituents -– benzene –- is carcinogenic.
    
    
• skin contact, which can lead to itchiness, redness, pain, blisters and peeling; and
  
  
• ingestion, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness and breathing difficulties. In large enough quantities, ingestion can lead to coma or death.

Signs of a Possible Leak

 

The following conditions can aid inspectors and homeowners in identifying leaks or conditions that may lead to leaks in above-ground heating oil tanks:

• drips or any signs of leaks around the tank, filter, fuel-delivery line, valves, piping or fittings;
• signs that the tank has been patched to temporarily conceal a leak (depicted in the photo below);
• rusty, loose, wobbly or bent tank legs, or a cracked foundation, which can indicate poor tank stability. A full 275-gallon heating oil tank weighs more than 2,000 pounds, so it needs strong legs and a sturdy foundation;
• poor condition of oil tank lines. Check these periodically and contact the oil supplier if they look questionable. Keep the vent line clear of any snow, ice and insect nests;
• dying vegetation surrounding an outdoor tank.  An oil leak may be the cause of damaged or dying plants or grass nearby;
• wet spots or rust on the tank’s outer surface;
• old fuel-fill lines are no longer connected to the tank in use. If these lines are inadvertently filled, a massive oil leak will result. Unused/unconnected fuel lines from replaced oil tanks should be removed;
• overhanging eaves that may allow ice or snow to fall onto the tank and melt, potentially corroding the tank;
• fuel lines that are not covered by protective casing, even if the tank is underground;
• oil stains on the ground or a strong odor of oil around the tank;
• a cracked, stuck or frozen fuel-level gauge, or signs of fuel around the gauge;
• a clogged or restricted tank vent blocked by snow, ice or insect nests; or
• signs of an oil spill around the fill pipe or vent pipe.

 

What should you do in case of an oil spill?

 

Homeowners should take the following steps in the event of a residential oil spill or leak.

• Act immediately. Even after the source of the leak is stopped, the leaked oil will saturate surrounding soil, flow into cracks and drains, and get beneath floors and walls and remain there until it is cleaned up.

• Turn off all sources of flames or sparks in the area, such as pilot lights in water heaters and furnaces. Unplug any sparking mechanisms. Do not smoke or light matches in the area. While heating oil is less flammable than gasoline, it is still possible for it to ignite.
  
  
• Ventilate the area. Clothes and furniture will absorb the oil smell and may need to be discarded. Open windows and close cold-air returns, heat registers and other openings that may allow fumes to enter other areas of the home. Make every effort to seal off any air flow between the spill and the inhabited areas of the home.
  
  
• Be sure to keep pets away from any contaminated area. 
  
  

• Clean up small spills by donning rubber gloves and old shoes and clothes that can be thrown away afterward. Avoid skin contact and inhalation of fumes. Larger spills will require professional cleanup.

 

In summary, home heating oil is a moderately toxic substance that can do serious damage to buildings and the environment.  InterNACHI inspectors and homeowners should keep an eye out for any signs of an undetected leak or an accidental spill.  If a leak or spill is discovered, take immediate safety measures, including contacting the fuel supplier.  

 

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London

And a note from Judy: If you suspect youe tank is leaking, call a professional IMMEDIATELY.

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

* * * * * * *

Buying or Selling a Home in Fairfield County?  Contact us!

If you have a question about buying or selling Real Estate in  Fairfield County, and are in need of representation, I invite you to contact me. I know the market like the back of my hand, know marketing inside and out, am a skilled negotiator- and I'd love to be on your side :) - Judy

Search for properties on any of our sites, or get the very best visibility available for your home. Visit us online wherever you like:

www.CThomesAndRealEstate.com      www.TheCTrealtyBlog.com     www.TheCTRB.com    and   www.CTfeaturedHomes.com 

 Email us or  call Toll Free (855) GET-JUDY

Those Trees Are Beautiful, But They Can Be Dangerous to Your Home

Although trees are generally a desirable feature of home landscaping, they can pose a threat to buildings in a number of different ways. Inspectors may want to educate themselves about tree dangers so that they can inform their clients about potentially dangerous situations.

Tree Roots and Foundations

Contrary to popular belief, InterNACHI has found that tree roots cannot normally pierce through a building's foundation. They can, however, damage a foundation in the following ways:

    Roots can sometimes penetrate a building's foundation through pre-existing cracks.  
    Large root systems that extend beneath a house can cause foundation uplift.
    Roots can leech water from the soil beneath foundations, causing the structures to settle and sink unevenly.

Other Dangers:

    Trees that are too close to buildings may be fire hazards. Soffit vents provide easy access for flames to enter a house.
    Leaves and broken branches can clog gutters, potentially causing ice dams or water penetration into the building.
    Old, damaged or otherwise weak trees may fall and endanger lives and property. Large, weak branches, too, are a hazard, especially if weighed down by ice.
    Tree roots can potentially penetrate underground drainage pipes, especially when they leak. Water that leaks from a drainage or sanitary pipe can encourage root growth in the direction of the leak, where the roots may eventually enter the pipe and obstruct its flow.
    Trees may be used by insects and rodents to gain access to the building.
    Falling trees and branches can topple power lines and communication lines.

Structural Defects in Trees - Dangerous Crack in tree .

 
Trees with structural defects likely to cause failure to all or part of a tree can damage nearby buildings. The following are indications that a tree has a structural defect:

    dead twigs, dead branches, or small, off-color leaves;
    species-specific defects. Some species of maple, ash and pear often form weak branch unions, while some other fast-growing species of maple, aspen, ailanthus and willow are weak-wooded and prone to breakage at a relatively young age;
    cankers, which are localized areas on branches or stems of a tree where the bark is sunken or missing. Cankers are caused by wounding or disease. The presence of a canker increases the chance that the stem will break near the canker. A tree with a canker that encompasses more than half of the tree's circumference may be hazardous even if the exposed wood appears healthy;
    hollowed trunks;
    Advanced decay (wood that is soft, punky or crumbly, or a cavity where the wood is missing) can create a serious hazard. Evidence of fungal activity, such as mushrooms, conks and brackets growing on root flares, stems or branches are indications of advanced decay. A tree usually decays from the inside out, eventually forming a cavity, but sound wood is also added to the outside of the tree as it grows. Trees with sound outer wood shells may be relatively safe, but this depends on the ratio of sound-to-decayed wood, and other defects that might be present;
    cracks, which are deep splits through the bark, extending into the wood of the tree. Cracks are very dangerous because they indicate that the tree is presently failing;
    V-shaped forks. Elm, oak, maple, yellow poplar and willow are especially prone to breakage at weak forks;
    The tree leans at more than 15 degrees from vertical. Generally, trees bent to this degree should be removed if they pose a danger. Trees that have grown in a leaning orientation are not as hazardous as trees that were originally straight but subsequently developed a lean due to wind or Canker in tree root damage. Large trees that have tipped in intense winds seldom recover. The general growth-form of the tree and any uplifted soil on the side of the tree opposite the lean provide clues as to when the lean developed.

Tips that inspectors can pass on to their clients:

    Binoculars are helpful for examining the higher portions of tall trees for damage.
    When planting trees, they should be kept far from the house. It is impossible for the homeowner to reliably predict how far the roots will spread, and trees that are too close to a building may be a fire hazard.
    Do not damage roots. In addition to providing nutrition for the tree, roots anchor the tree to the ground. Trees with damaged roots are more likely to lean and topple than trees with healthy roots. Vehicles are capable of damaging a tree's root system.
    Dead trees within the range of a house should be removed. If they are not removed, the small twigs will fall first, followed by the larger branches, and eventually the trunk. This process can take several years.

    Inspect your trees periodically for hazards, especially in large, old trees. Every tree likely to have a problem should be inspected from bottom to top. Look for signs of decay and continue up the trunk toward the crown, noting anything that might indicate a potential hazard.

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

* * * * * * *

Buying or Selling a Home in Fairfield County?  Contact us!

If you have a question about buying or selling Real Estate in  Fairfield County, and are in need of representation, I invite you to contact me. I know the market like the back of my hand, know marketing inside and out, am a skilled negotiator- and I'd love to be on your side :) - Judy

Search for properties on any of our sites, or get the very best visibility available for your home. Visit us online wherever you like:

www.CThomesAndRealEstate.com      www.TheCTrealtyBlog.com     www.TheCTRB.com    and   www.CTfeaturedHomes.com 

 Email us or  call Toll Free (855) GET-JUDY

Your Connecticut Home And The Dangers of Lightning

It is hurricane season,  and the storms have been upon us  or a few days. While most people are aware of the threat of lightning, and the damage it can cause, there may be a few things you didn't know about it that are of the utmost importance.

Lightning is the "visible discharge of static electricity within a cloud, between clouds or between the earth and a cloud," as defined by Underwriters Laboratories. Lightning is unpredictable and a serious threat to buildings and their occupants virtually everywhere.

 

Facts about lightning:

• Benjamin Franklin invented the first lightning rod in 1752 –- a kite outfitted with a metal key -- while waiting impatiently for the completion of a church on top of which he would mount a lightning rod.
• Lightning comes up from the earth –- as well as down from the cloud -- from high vertical features such as chimneys and trees.
• A typical lightning bolt carries 50,000 amps, tens of millions of volts, and can reach 50,000° F. “Superbolts” may be 100 times more powerful than typical bolts, and travel much farther, too; one such superbolt went from Waco to Dallas, Texas, after having traveled about 118 miles.
• According to the National Weather Service, of the 34 people killed by lightning in the United States in 2009, all were outside when they were struck. Thus, homes provide a great deal of safety against lightning strikes. Interestingly, the same report indicates that 82% of lightning casualties were male. 
• Permanent injuries caused by lightning strikes are predominantly neurological and can include sleep disorders, attention deficits, numbness, dizziness, irritability, fatigue, depression, and an inability to sit for long periods of time.
• Between 2002 and 2005, lightning caused an annual average of $213 million in property damage.

Types of dangers from lightning to houses and occupants:

• damaged appliances from power surges;
• electrocution risk for occupants;
• fire risk to the building and occupants;
• damage to the structure from water used to douse the fire by the fire department; and
• damage to the structure and endangered health from mold colonies, if the building was not dried quickly following fire suppression.

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST)

CSST is a relatively new type of gas tubing that has been widely installed in houses and in commercial applications in recent years. Its small diameter makes it flexible and relatively easy to install when compared with traditional, rigid, heavy-walled pipes, although this same quality is believed to make it susceptible to fire due to lightning strikes. Lightning that travels down the CSST can burn holes in the tubing and allow gas leakage and fire. In the worst cases, gas leaks have led to disastrous gas explosions. CSST has been found to be susceptible to damage from direct and even nearby lightning strikes.

These claims have lead to a class-action lawsuit against manufacturers of CCST (Titeflex, Ward, OmegaFlex and Parker Hannifin) installed in homes as of September 5, 2006. Plaintiffs claim that the CSST tubing is not thick enough to prevent becoming damaged in the event of a lightning strike, and that CSST manufacturers failed to warn consumers about such dangers. The defendants claim that CSST is safe if properly installed, in accordance with local codes and the manufacturers’ instructions. According to the Lightning Protection Institute, dangerous CSST has been installed in more than a million homes in the United States.

Identification of CSST

Typically, these products may be visible in attic spaces, along floor joists, above basements, or connected to exposed appliances, such as water heaters. The piping can be identified by its manufacturer’s mark, each of which are listed below:

• OmegaFlex's CSST is stamped with the marks “TRACPIPE” or “COUNTERSTRIKE.”
• Parker Hannifin's CSST is stamped with the mark “PARFLEX.”
• Titeflex's CSST is stamped with the mark “GASTITE.”
• Ward's CSST is stamped with the mark “WARDFLEX.”

Additional bonding to ground is recommended for houses with CSST.

 

Safety tips for clients during thunderstorms:

• Unplug sensitive appliances, such as computers and telephones, from electrical outlets and phone lines. Surge protectors are helpful, but they should not be relied upon during a storm.
• Stay off corded phones, computers, and other electronic equipment that put you in direct contact with electricity. If you are unable to unplug them, turn them off. Lightning may strike nearby electric or phone lines and enter your home.  
• Unplug other appliances, such as air conditioners.
• Stay away from windows.
• Avoid washing your hands, bathing, doing laundry, and washing dishes -- activities that put you in direct contact with running water.

Lightning Protection Systems

Lightning protection systems are devices intended to divert lightning into low-resistance paths to or from the earth and away from non-conducting parts of a structure. For specific inspection instructions regarding these systems, see the National Fire Protection Agency’s NFPA-780.

Lightning Rods

Metal rods are fastened to the building to intercept electric discharges that might otherwise strike a building component itself, such as a chimney or metal roof. Electrical discharges striking the air terminal are directed through metal conductors to a grounding system and thence into the earth.

 

Controversy has existed for centuries concerning whether lightning rods should have blunt or sharp tips. Recent studies have found that moderately blunt metal rods are better lightning-strike receptors than sharper rods or very blunt rods.

 

 

In summary, lightning can be very dangerous to homes and occupants, although devices and measures exist to limit this danger.

by Nick Gromicko and Rob London

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

* * * * * * *

And a note From Judy: If you have a question about buying or selling a home in Fairfield County, and are in need of an Realtor to represent you, I invite you to contact me, and if you have an idea for a topic that you would like to see on The CT Realty Blog, please include it in the "Post a Comment" section link below this post. We appreciate the feedback and look forward to providing you with the best real estate content, advice and service in Fairfield County, Connecticut.

Learn What Causes Efflorescence in Your Basement

Efflorescence is an accumulation of minerals and salts on masonry surfaces, such as brick, cement, and sometimes stone. Inspectors should know how to prevent against and remove this unsightly residue. They must also be aware that, while efflorescence itself is not dangerous, it indicates the presence of excess water, which can lead to more serious structural and health issues.

 

How Efflorescence Forms

 

The earth contains natural salts that are present in the raw materials that make up masonry products, such as concrete, asphalt and stucco. These salts remain trapped within masonry in solid form until they are dissolved into water, which usually makes its way into the material through small pores. Water can originate from rain, sprinklers, household leaks, or any number of other places. Cold, dry air will draw this liquid back out of the material where it evaporates, depositing the salt as a white crystalline growth on the surface. Efflorescence typically forms during cold, dry weather shortly after it has rained and moisture has entered the masonry. It can occur year-round, but it is most likely to form during the winter due to low temperatures.

 
Identifying Efflorescence

 

As with mold, the appearance of efflorescence varies greatly. It can be powdery, it can have sharp edges and be easy to spot, or it can have indistinct edges. It can cover a large area as a fine dust, or form large individual crystals. Its appearance depends partly on the type of salt from which it is composed, but humidity also plays a role in this determination. In exceptionally dry climates, water can evaporate before it even reaches the surface, in which case the salt will accumulate unseen beneath the surface. In humid conditions, moisture may take a long time to evaporate, allowing the slow growth of “whispers” projecting from the surface.

 

InterNACHI inspectors should already know how to distinguish mold (pictured at right) from efflorescence, but it is possible for homeowners to confuse the two. The expense of a mold test can be avoided if the substance in question can be identified as efflorescence. Here are a few tips that inspectors can offer their clients so that they understand the differences:

• Pinched between the fingers, efflorescence will turn into a powder, while mold will not.
• Efflorescence forms on inorganic building materials, while mold forms on organic substances. However, it is possible for mold to consume dirt on brick or cement.
• Efflorescence will dissolve in water, while mold will not.
• Efflorescence is almost always white, yellow or brown, while mold can be any color imaginable. If the substance in question is purple, pink or black, it is not efflorescence.

Aside from mold, the following conditions can result from excess moisture in a residence:

• fungi that rot wood;
• water damage to sheetrock;
• reduced effectiveness of insulation.

Inspectors should note the presence of efflorescence in their inspection reports because it generally occurs where there is excess moisture, a condition that also encourages the growth of mold. An exception can be made during the first few years of a building’s construction when efflorescence will appear as a result of moisture locked within the masonry in a process called “new building bloom.” This moisture comes from water added during the manufacturing or mixing process that will undoubtedly contribute to efflorescence. This type of efflorescence will appear all over the masonry material and will continue to accumulate until the initial water supply is exhausted, which can take up to a year. Efflorescence that appears locally and after the “new building bloom” is over is a symptom of excess moisture that can be problematic. The source of this moisture should  be determined and corrected.

 
Prevention and Removal of Efflorescence

Prevention

• An impregnating hydrophobic sealant can be applied to a surface to prevent the intrusion of water. It will also prevent water from traveling to the surface from within. In cold climates, this sealant can cause material to break during freeze/thaw cycles.
• During home construction, bricks left out overnight should be kept on pallets and be covered. Moisture from damp soil and rain can be absorbed into the brick.

Removal

• Pressurized water can sometimes be used to remove or dissolve efflorescence.
• An acid, such as diluted muriatic acid, can be used to dissolve efflorescence. Water should be applied first so that the acid does not discolor the brick itself. Following application, baking soda can be used to neutralize the acid and prevent any additional damage to the masonry. Muriatic acid is toxic, and contact with skin or eyes should be avoided. 
• A strong brush can be used.

Note:  The use of water to remove efflorescence may result in the re-absorption of crystals into the host material, from which they may later reappear as more efflorescence. It is advisable that if water is used in the removal process that it is dried off very quickly.

In summary, efflorescence is a harmless yet unsightly accumulation of salts on masonry surfaces. Its presence indicates excess water, a condition that can damage interiors and encourage the growth of mold. Inspectors should know how to remove efflorescence from surfaces, and educate their clients about its identification and significance.

 

 

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

* * * * * * *

And a note From Judy: If you have a question about buying or selling a home in Fairfield County, and are in need of an Realtor to represent you, I invite you to contact me, and if you have an idea for a topic that you would like to see on The CT Realty Blog, please include it in the "Post a Comment" section link below this post. We appreciate the feedback and look forward to providing you with the best real estate content, advice and service in Fairfield County, Connecticut.

The Importance of Bathroom Fans and Ducts

Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home's exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof.

 

Fan Function  

 

 The fan may be controlled in one of several ways:

• Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch. 
• A timer switch may be mounted on the wall.
• A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity.

Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Inspectors can test for adequate fan airflow with a chemical smoke pencil or a powder puff bottle, but such tests exceed InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.

Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede air flow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers.

 

Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.

 

Defects

 

The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:

• moisture stains on walls or ceilings;
• corrosion of metal;
• visible mold on walls or ceilings;
• peeling paint or wallpaper;
• frost on windows; and
• high levels of humidity.

The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior.

  

The most common improper terminations locations are:

• mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot;
• beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed; and 
• under attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just under it.

Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom, so the inspector may have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes, poorly installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.

 

Ducts that leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation and other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health and/or decay problems from mold, or damage to building materials, such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Mold

 

Perhaps the most serious consequence of an improper ventilation setup is the potential accumulation of mold in attics or crawlspaces. Mold may appear as a fuzzy, thread-like, cobwebby fungus, although it can never be identified with certainty without being lab-tested. Health problems caused by mold are related to high concentrations of spores in indoor air.  Spores are like microscopic seeds, released by mold fungi when they reproduce. Every home has mold. Moisture levels of about 20% in materials will cause mold colonies to grow. Inhaling mold spores can cause health problems in those with asthma or allergies, and can cause serious or fatal fungal infections in those with lung disease or compromised immune systems.

Mold is impossible to identify visually and must be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled. Inspectors should refrain from calling anything “mold” but should refer to anything that appears as mold as a material that “appears to be microbial growth.” Inspectors should include in their report, and in the inspection agreement signed by the client, a disclaimer clearly stating that the General Home Inspection is an inspection for safety and system defects, not a mold inspection.

Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient or early decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible, affected wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength.

In order to grow, mold fungi require the following conditions to be present:

• oxygen;
• temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F;
• food. This includes a wider variety of materials found in homes; and
• moisture.

If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will go dormant. Most are difficult to actually kill.

Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment.

Improper Ventilation  

 

Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted.

 

Ventilation ducts must:

• terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope;
• contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry;
• be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder;
• be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts encourage condensation;
• protrude at least several inches from the roof;
• be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements; and 
• be installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  

The following tips are helpful, although not required. Ventilation ducts should:

• be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop; and 
• have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.

Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Nick Gromicko, FOUNDER. http://www.nachi.org
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) is the world's most elite, non-profit inspection association.
President, ComInspect, www.cominspect.com
Director, Master Inspector Certification Board, www.certifiedmasterinspector.org
Author, 15 books and Co-Host of  http://www.NACHI.TV

* * * * * * *

And a note From Judy: If you have a question about buying or selling a home in Fairfield County, and are in need of an Realtor to represent you, I invite you to contact me, and if you have an idea for a topic that you would like to see on The CT Realty Blog, please include it in the "Post a Comment" section link below this post. We appreciate the feedback and look forward to providing you with the best real estate content, advice and service in Fairfield County, Connecticut.